Climbing News (English)

Hubers, Siegrist Pioneer Huge Antarctic Walls

Climbing - Wed, 01/28/2009 - 17:57
1/28/09 - During a six-week trip to Queen Maud Land in Antarctica, Bavarian brothers Alex and Thomas Huber, along with Stephan Siegrist from Switzerland, climbed new routes on two enormous, otherworldy rock towers thrusting from the ice cap.

National Champs: Carlo Traversi, Emily Harrington

Climbing - Mon, 01/26/2009 - 20:59
1/26/09 - In a two-day comp near Salt Lake City, Coloradans Carlo Traversi and Emily Harrington won the 2009 SCS Adult National Championships, sponsored by the North Face and Sterling Ropes.

The First Winter Ascent of a Cascades’ Summer Classic on Dragontail Peak

Climbing - Fri, 01/23/2009 - 16:41
1/23/09 - Ade Miller and John Plotz took advantage of a rare spell of good weather in Washington's North-Central Cascades to complete the first winter ascent of the Backbone Ridge with Fin Direct on Dragontail Peak.

Prominent Zion Aid Line Free-Climbed

Climbing - Fri, 01/23/2009 - 15:09
1/23/09 - Rob Pizem and Mike Brumbaugh have free-climbed Gentleman's Agreement on Zion National Park's Three Marys formation at 5.13b.

Sending Spree at the Buttermilks

Climbing - Wed, 01/21/2009 - 16:46
1/21/09 - Matt Wilder climbed a number of hard problems during a three-week trip to Bishop, California over his winter holiday in December 2008 through early January 2009.

Josh Wharton: M10, V10 and 5.13 in a Week 

Climbing - Tue, 01/20/2009 - 14:13
1/20/09 - Josh Wharton has completed a self-described "arbitrary" goal of redpointing an M10 mixed route, V10 boulder problem, and 5.13 rock route in a single week of climbing.

Steck Solos Matterhorn North Face in 1:56

Climbing - Mon, 01/19/2009 - 20:58
1/19/09 - The Swiss climber Ueli Steck has climbed the north face of the Matterhorn by the Schmid Route in 1 hour 56 minutes.

Huge New Ice Route in Nepal

Climbing - Mon, 01/19/2009 - 15:22
1/19/09 - Ines Papert and Cory Richards have climbed a new route on the historic, 1,200-meter north face of Kwangde in Nepal.

The Piolet d'Or is Back

Climbing - Wed, 01/14/2009 - 16:12
1/14/09 - The Piolet d’Or will return this spring after a one-year hiatus and a search for a new format that aims to make such prizes acceptable to those who believe alpinism has no winners and losers.

2009 Mugs Stump Award Winners Announced

Climbing - Tue, 01/13/2009 - 17:17
1/13/09 - The applications received for 2009 included many strong teams with objectives in far-flung corners of the mountaineering world, from Patagonia, to Pakistan, to the Canadian Rockies, to Alaska.

Another Gritstone Challenge Falls

Climbing - Mon, 01/12/2009 - 18:09
1/12/09 - Ryan Pasquill has succeeded in climbing a desperate new route at the Ilkley Crag in Yorkshire, England.

Wharton, Glanc Take Ouray Prize

Climbing - Mon, 01/12/2009 - 14:01
1/12/09 - Josh Wharton and Dawn Glanc won the mixed-climbing competition at the 14th annual Ouray Ice Festival in southwestern Colorado.

Jorgeson Sends Insane 45-foot Highball

Climbing - Fri, 01/09/2009 - 15:53
1/09/09 - Fueled by the drink of the gods, Kevin Jorgeson, has made the first ascent of a bold 45-foot tall face on the Grandpa Peabody boulder at the Buttermilk Boulders, near Bishop, California.

Haley Solos Fitz Roy's Supercanaleta

Climbing - Fri, 01/09/2009 - 14:31
1/09/08 - Colin Haley has done a rare solo ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, via the Supercanaleta (a.k.a. Super Couloir), the amazing ice and mixed line that splits the mountain's west face.

Rare Avalanche Kills Wyoming Ice Climber

Climbing - Wed, 01/07/2009 - 21:12
1/07/09 - Ice climber Keith Spencer died January 2 when a rare and powerful avalanche swept the Main Vein ice climb in the South Fork Valley, near Cody, Wyoming.

MacLeod Repeats "E12" Slab in England

Climbing - Wed, 01/07/2009 - 15:11
1/07/09 - Scotland's Dave MacLeod has made the second ascent of The Walk of Life, a 50-meter steep slab on England's North Devon coast that was given the unprecedented grade of E12 7a when James Pearson made the first ascent last year.

Steck Solos Grandes Jorasses in 2:21

Climbing - Wed, 01/07/2009 - 15:00
1/07/09 - Ueli Steck has soloed the Colton-MacIntyre Route on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in 2 hours 21 minutes, the fastest time for any route on the premier north wall of the Mont Blanc massif.

New Routes in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica

Climbing - Mon, 01/05/2009 - 15:05
1/05/09 - At the end of 2008, a French expedition climbed a new route on the granite tower Holstind in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, and made the first ascent of several other peaks.

Winter Suffer-fests on Four 8,000'ers

Climbing - Fri, 01/02/2009 - 15:52
1/02/09 - Attempted winter ascents of three 8,000-meter peaks are under way in Pakistan and Nepal.

Diamond Braves Super-Highball V11 in Bishop

Climbing - Wed, 12/31/2008 - 17:46
12/31/08 - After sussing the moves with a top rope, Shawn Diamond bouldered the first ascent of a "super-highball" problem called Luminance (tentatively graded V11) near the Buttermilks in California.